The History and Evolution of the Cheongsam (Qipao)

The cheongsam, also known as the qipao, is one of the most iconic garments in Chinese fashion history. Its journey from a loose, Manchu-era robe to a sleek, body-hugging dress beloved by women worldwide tells a fascinating story of cultural change, modernity, and elegance.

Origins in the Qing Dynasty

The cheongsam began its life during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), when the ruling Manchu people introduced their own style of clothing to China. The original garment, called a qipao in Mandarin (which literally means "banner robe" after the Manchu "Eight Banners" military and social system), was a long, straight-cut, one-piece dress worn by Manchu women. It was typically loose-fitting, with a high collar, long sleeves, and side slits for ease of movement.

Han Chinese women at this time wore a different style – a two-piece outfit of a jacket and a long skirt. The cheongsam was distinctly Manchu in origin, but over centuries, the two cultures began to influence each other.

The Roaring 1920s and 1930s: A Fashion Revolution

The cheongsam’s transformation into the modern silhouette we know today took place in Shanghai during the 1920s and 1930s. This was a golden age for the city, a cosmopolitan hub where East met West, and fashion was changing rapidly.

Influenced by Western dresses and women’s liberation movements, young urban women began altering the traditional qipao. The loose fit was replaced by a more body-conscious cut that emphasized the waist. The hemline rose from the ankles to just below the knee, and side slits became higher – at first for practicality, then as a stylish accent. Short or elbow-length sleeves became common, and bold patterns, vibrant colors, and luxurious fabrics like silk and satin were used.

The cheongsam became the uniform of the modern Chinese woman – stylish, independent, and sophisticated. Movie stars, socialites, and students all wore it. Even Western fashion designers took note, incorporating elements of the cheongsam into their own creations.

The 1940s and Wartime Simplicity

During the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937–1945) and later the Chinese Civil War, fashion took a backseat to survival. Cheongsams became simpler, often made from cheaper fabrics like cotton, and the elaborate embroidery and fur trims of the previous decade disappeared. The silhouette remained slim but functional. This period also saw the cheongsam spread beyond Shanghai, becoming a national garment.

The 1950s to 1970s: Decline in Mainland China

After the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, the cheongsam faced a challenging time. In the early years, it was still worn by some women for formal occasions, but the Cultural Revolution (1966–1976) saw traditional clothing suppressed as bourgeois and feudal. The practical, androgynous Mao suit (Zhongshan suit) and plain blue or green uniforms became the norm. The cheongsam all but disappeared from daily life in mainland China for decades.

Survival and Revival in Hong Kong and Taiwan

While the cheongsam declined on the mainland, it lived on in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and overseas Chinese communities. In Hong Kong during the 1950s and 1960s, the cheongsam underwent another evolution. Local tailors, influenced by Western haute couture, created the “Hong Kong cheongsam” – a tighter, more figure-hugging version with darts, zippers, and a structured fit. It became a symbol of glamour, elegance, and Chinese identity, often worn by actresses in films and by women at formal banquets.

The Modern Cheongsam (1980s to Today)

Since China’s economic reforms of the 1980s, the cheongsam has experienced a steady revival. It is no longer daily wear, but it occupies a special place in Chinese culture:

• Formal occasions: Women often wear cheongsams for weddings, banquets, and the Lunar New Year.
• Uniforms: Many airlines, hotels, and restaurants use cheongsam-inspired designs for staff uniforms, symbolizing Chinese hospitality.
• Fashion runways: International and Chinese designers have reimagined the cheongsam with modern cuts, sheer fabrics, asymmetrical hemlines, and fusion styles that blend Eastern and Western aesthetics.
• Cultural identity: For many Chinese and diaspora women, wearing a cheongsam is a proud statement of heritage and elegance.

Practical Travel Advice: Seeing the Cheongsam in China

If you are traveling to China and want to experience the cheongsam firsthand, here are some tips:

• Where to see them: Visit the Shanghai Museum of Costume or the China National Silk Museum in Hangzhou to see historical cheongsams up close. In Hong Kong, the Hong Kong Heritage Museum often features exhibits on the garment’s evolution.
• Where to buy: In Shanghai, the Qipao Street on Dongtai Road or the fabric market on Lujiabang Road are famous for custom-made cheongsams. In Hong Kong, traditional tailors in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui can create a bespoke piece. Always negotiate prices and allow at least 3-5 days for tailoring.
• Wearing one yourself: Many visitors love to have a cheongsam made as a souvenir. Choose a fabric (silk, cotton, or brocade) and a color that suits you, and find a reputable tailor. A well-fitted cheongsam should hug your body comfortably without being tight.
• Fabric care: Real silk cheongsams require dry cleaning. Cotton and synthetic blends are easier to care for.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a cheongsam and a qipao? In English, the two terms are often used interchangeably. Technically, qipao is the Mandarin Chinese name, while cheongsam is the Cantonese pronunciation of the same garment. Both refer to the one-piece dress.

Is the cheongsam only for formal wear? Not anymore. Modern designers have created casual versions using cotton or linen, with shorter lengths and simpler cuts. However, the traditional silk cheongsam with embroidery is still reserved for formal events.

Can men wear a cheongsam? Historically, men also wore a version of the qipao, but today it is overwhelmingly a women’s garment. Men from the Manchu era wore a similar long robe called a changshan, which is sometimes called a “male qipao” in English.

Why do cheongsams have side slits? Originally, side slits allowed for easier movement, especially when sitting or riding a horse (a legacy of the Manchu nomad tradition). Today, they remain a stylistic feature that adds grace and a glimpse of the leg.

How do I choose the right cheongsam? Consider the occasion, your body shape, and the fabric. Vertical patterns can elongate the body. Lighter colors suit daytime events, while deep reds, golds, and blacks are traditional for evening. Always try it on – a cheongsam must fit perfectly.

Conclusion

The cheongsam is more than just a beautiful dress. It is a living artifact that reflects China’s turbulent 20th century – from imperial grandeur to wartime austerity, from cultural suppression to global fashion revival. Today, whether you see it on a bride, a flight attendant, or a movie star, the cheongsam remains a timeless symbol of Chinese elegance and identity. For international travelers, understanding its history adds a deeper layer of appreciation when you encounter this iconic garment on your journey through China.