Parts of a Qipao: Mandarin Collar, Pankou Buttons, and More

The qipao, also known as the cheongsam, is one of China’s most iconic garments. For international travelers exploring Chinese culture, understanding the anatomy of a qipao adds a layer of appreciation whether you are shopping for one in a Shanghai boutique, admiring it in a museum, or planning to wear it for a special occasion. This guide breaks down the key parts of a qipao, from the distinctive collar to the intricate closures.

The Mandarin Collar

The most recognizable feature of a qipao is the Mandarin collar, also called a standing collar or Nehru collar. This narrow, upright collar hugs the neck closely, typically standing 2 to 5 centimeters high. It gives the garment a refined, elegant silhouette. In traditional designs, the collar is stiffened with interfacing to maintain its shape.

On authentic qipaos, the collar often features a small opening at the front, fastened with one or two buttons. This design not only allows the wearer to slip the garment on more easily but also adds a subtle decorative detail.

Travel tip: When buying a qipao, check that the collar sits comfortably against your neck without choking. High-quality silk or brocade qipaos usually have a soft inner lining inside the collar for comfort.

Pankou Buttons: The Art of Chinese Knotting

Pankou (盘扣) are decorative Chinese knot buttons that serve both functional and ornamental purposes. They are handmade from silk cord or fabric strips, intricately knotted into loops and toggles. A typical qipao has a row of pankou running diagonally from the right shoulder down to the right side of the waist, and sometimes additional buttons at the collar and cuffs.

Each pankou is a miniature work of art. Common knot patterns include:

• Butterfly knot – symbolizing love and happiness
• Ruyi knot – representing good luck and prosperity
• Flower knot – often paired with embroidered floral motifs
• Simple round knot – clean and modern, common on everyday qipaos

Travel tip: Handmade pankou are a mark of quality. Machine-made plastic buttons are cheaper but lack the cultural and craftsmanship value. If you buy a vintage or custom qipao, examine the knots carefully — loose threads or uneven loops indicate poor workmanship.

The Side Slit

Traditional qipaos have side slits (usually on both sides) that allow ease of movement, especially when walking or sitting. The height of the slit varies by era and style. Classic 1920s Shanghai qipaos had modest slits ending above the knee, while more modern or evening versions may have slits reaching mid-thigh or higher.

The slit is often edged with a piped trim that matches the collar and cuffs, creating visual continuity. For conservative wear, slits that stop just above the knee are still common in daily and office qipaos.

The Body and Fit

A true qipao is cut from a single piece of fabric, with no waist seam. The bodice is tailored to follow the wearer’s natural curves, often using darts or princess seams (visible vertical seams running from the shoulder through the bust and waist). This one-piece construction gives the qipao its sleek, seamless look.

The dress is typically fitted through the torso and flares slightly at the hips. Sleeves vary widely:

• Short sleeves – most common for summer or daywear
• Three-quarter sleeves – elegant and versatile
• Long sleeves – seen in winter or formal designs
• Sleeveless – popular in modern party qipaos

Cuffs and Hem

Cuffs on qipaos are usually straight and finished with a matching piping or a narrow band of contrast fabric. In some regional styles (like the Cantonese cheongsam), cuffs may feature embroidery or lace trim.

The hem is traditionally straight, falling anywhere from mid-calf to ankle length. Modern interpretations sometimes feature a slight A-line flare or a high-low hem. The hemline is often finished with a rolled hem or bias binding for a clean edge.

Fabric and Decoration

Qipaos are made from a wide range of fabrics, each affecting the garment’s drape and feel:

• Silk brocade – heavy, patterned, and luxurious; common for formal wear
• Satin – shiny and smooth, often used for evening qipaos
• Cotton or linen – breathable and casual; popular in summer
• Velvet – rich and warm, ideal for winter events
• Polyester blends – affordable and easy to care for; found in souvenir shops

Common decorative techniques include:

• Embroidery – floral, bird, or dragon motifs, often hand-stitched
• Piping – narrow trim along edges that matches or contrasts with the main fabric
• Sequins and beadwork – used on festive or evening qipaos
• Printed patterns – modern alternatives to embroidery

The Lining

Quality qipaos include an inner lining, usually made of silk or rayon, that extends from the bodice to just below the hip. The lining prevents the outer fabric from clinging to the body and adds durability. Some lightweight qipaos are unlined, which is acceptable for summer but may show seams or become transparent in strong light.

Regional Variations

While the standard qipao is closely associated with Shanghai and Beijing, distinct regional styles exist:

• Shanghai-style (Haipai) – more form-fitting, often with bolder colors and modern cuts
• Beijing-style (Jingpai) – looser fit, more traditional embroidery, and wider use of brocade
• Hong Kong-style – often sleeveless with a high slit; influenced by Western fashion
• Cantonese-style – features intricate floral embroidery and longer sleeves

How to Choose a Qipao as a Traveler

If you plan to buy a qipao during your trip, keep these practical points in mind:

• Try before you buy: Sizing varies significantly between brands. Chinese size charts often differ from Western ones, so always try the dress on.
• Check for custom tailoring: Many shops in Shanghai, Beijing, and Hong Kong offer made-to-measure qipaos within 2–7 days. This is ideal for a perfect fit, especially if you have a non-standard body shape.
• Fabric matters: For daily wear, choose cotton or cotton-silk blends. For formal occasions, go with silk brocade or satin.
• Look for handwork: Hand-sewn pankou and hand embroidery are signs of quality and justify higher prices.
• Avoid cheap souvenirs: Mass-produced qipaos sold at tourist markets often use polyester, plastic buttons, and poor stitching. They may look fine in photos but will not last.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can men wear a qipao? A: The qipao is traditionally a women’s garment. Men wear the changshan (长衫), a long robe with a similar mandarin collar but different cut. However, modern gender-fluid fashion has seen some designers create unisex qipao-inspired pieces.

Q: How do I wash a qipao? A: Always check the care label. Silk and brocade qipaos should be dry-cleaned. Cotton or polyester blends may be hand-washed in cold water. Never wring or twist the fabric.

Q: What accessories go with a qipao? A: Pearl necklaces, jade bracelets, and small clutch purses complement the elegant lines of a qipao. Avoid large or chunky jewelry that might snag the delicate fabric.

Q: Is it appropriate to wear a qipao as a non-Chinese person? A: Yes, if worn respectfully. Many Chinese people appreciate visitors who show interest in their traditional clothing. Avoid overly sexualized or poorly made versions, and choose a style that honors the garment’s cultural significance.

Conclusion

The qipao is far more than a dress — it is a masterpiece of tailoring, symbolism, and cultural heritage. From the precise Mandarin collar to the handcrafted pankou knots, every element tells a story. Whether you decide to buy one as a souvenir, wear it to a special event, or simply admire it in a museum, understanding these parts will enrich your experience of Chinese fashion history.

For travelers interested in exploring China’s textile and fashion culture, cities like Shanghai, Suzhou, and Beijing offer excellent opportunities to see, try, and even commission a custom qipao. Take your time, choose a style that suits your body and taste, and enjoy the timeless elegance of this remarkable garment.