Meizhou: Discover Hakka Hometown & Round Houses
Meizhou: Discover Hakka Hometown & Round Houses Nestled in the northeastern corner of Guangdong Province, Meizhou is often called the spiritual heartland of the Hakka people. For i
Nestled in the northeastern corner of Guangdong Province, Meizhou is often called the spiritual heartland of the Hakka people. For international travelers, this city offers a rare glimpse into one of China’s most fascinating cultural groups, known for their distinctive round houses, delicious cuisine, and centuries-old traditions. Unlike the bustling metropolises of Shenzhen or Guangzhou, Meizhou preserves a slower, more authentic rhythm of life—perfect for those seeking cultural depth and architectural wonder.
Why Visit Meizhou?
Meizhou is not just a destination; it is an experience of living heritage. The Hakka people, who migrated southward over many centuries, built remarkable fortified communal homes called weilongwu (enclosed dragon houses) and the iconic circular tulou (earth buildings). While the most famous tulou clusters are in Fujian Province, Meizhou offers its own impressive examples, often less crowded and more intimate.
Beyond architecture, Meizhou is also known as the “Hometown of Chinese Abacus.” The abacus, or suanpan, was historically central to Hakka commerce and education. Today, you can explore this legacy in local museums and cultural parks, witnessing how the ancient calculating tool shaped trade and daily life in the region.
Top Attractions in Meizhou
Hakka Round Houses (Tulou)
While Fujian’s tulou are UNESCO-listed, Meizhou’s earth buildings are authentic, accessible, and equally impressive. Key sites include:
- Bridging Earth Building (Qiaofu Tulou) – A well-preserved circular structure dating back to the Ming Dynasty. You can wander the interior, see the central courtyard, and imagine communal life as it was centuries ago.
- Dapu County Tulou Cluster – This area contains several round and square earth buildings, many still inhabited by local families. The mud-brick walls, narrow windows, and layered eaves create a fortress-like atmosphere.
Practical tip: Hire a local English-speaking guide if possible. Many tulou areas lack signage in English, and a guide can explain the history, defensive features, and social structure of these unique homes.
Hakka Museum of Meizhou
This modern museum is one of the best places to understand Hakka culture. Exhibits cover migration history, traditional clothing, farming tools, and—of course—the Chinese abacus. A dedicated section showcases beautifully crafted abacuses from different eras, along with explanations of how they were used for everything from tax calculation to gambling.
Meizhou Old Town (Song Dynasty Ancient Street)
Wander through lanes lined with preserved Qing and Ming-era buildings. The old street is not overly commercialized, offering a genuine feel of local life. You can find small shops selling Hakka snacks, tea, and handicrafts. Look for wooden abacuses sold as souvenirs—they make for a meaningful, culturally rooted keepsake.
Thousand Buddha Pagoda (Qianfo Ta)
This nine-story pagoda sits on a hill overlooking the city. Climb to the top for panoramic views of Meizhou and the surrounding mountains. The site blends Buddhist heritage with Hakka architectural style, making it a peaceful stop for reflection.
Practical Travel Advice
Best Time to Visit
October to December offers the most comfortable weather—cool, dry, and sunny. Spring (March to May) is also pleasant, though occasional rain is common. Summers (June to September) can be hot and humid, with typhoon risks.
Getting to Meizhou
- By Air: Meizhou Meixian Airport has direct flights from major Chinese cities such as Guangzhou, Shenzhen, and Shanghai. From the airport, taxis or ride-hailing apps can take you to the city center in about 20 minutes.
- By Train: High-speed rail connects Meizhou to Guangzhou (approx. 2.5 hours) and Shenzhen (approx. 3 hours). The Meizhou West Railway Station is the main hub.
- By Bus: Long-distance buses arrive from nearby cities like Shantou, Huizhou, and Xiamen.
Getting Around Meizhou
Public buses and taxis are available in the city center, but for visiting remote tulou sites in Dapu County or rural villages, renting a private car with an English-speaking driver is highly recommended. Many local tour operators offer day trips from Meizhou city to the outlying earth buildings.
Where to Eat
Hakka cuisine is famous for its hearty, savory flavors. Must-try dishes include:
- Salt-baked chicken (Yan Ju Ji) – Whole chicken baked in coarse salt, tender and aromatic.
- Stuffed tofu (Niang Dou Fu) – Tofu pockets filled with minced pork and herbs, braised in soy sauce.
- Preserved pork belly (La Rou) – Served steamed or stir-fried with vegetables.
- Leicha (thunder tea rice) – A Hakka specialty: rice topped with green tea soup, vegetables, peanuts, and dried shrimp. It is both a drink and a meal.
Local restaurants in Meizhou Old Town and near the museum are reliable choices. Most menus are in Chinese, so using a translation app or pointing at photos works well.
Accommodation
Meizhou has a range of hotels, from budget guesthouses to mid-range business hotels. For a unique experience, consider staying in a restored tulou guesthouse in the countryside—some now offer simple rooms with shared bathrooms. Advance booking is recommended during Chinese holidays (e.g., National Day in October, Spring Festival in January/February).
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is it easy to visit Meizhou’s tulou without a tour? A: Yes, you can visit independently. However, public transport to rural tulou sites is limited. Hiring a driver or joining a small group tour is more convenient and saves time.
Q: How long should I spend in Meizhou? A: Two to three days is ideal. One day for the city and museum, one day for the tulou cluster in Dapu County, and a half-day for Old Town and the pagoda.
Q: Do I need a special permit to visit Hakka round houses? A: No. Most tulou sites in Meizhou are open to the public without special permits. Some privately owned buildings may charge a small entry fee (typically 10–30 RMB).
Q: Are there English-speaking guides available? A: Limited, but available. Larger museums and some travel agencies can arrange English-speaking guides upon request. It is best to book in advance.
Q: Is Meizhou safe for solo travelers? A: Yes. Meizhou is a safe city with low crime. Use common sense—keep valuables secure and be cautious on rural roads at night.
Conclusion
Meizhou offers a window into Hakka life that is both authentic and accessible. From the majestic round houses that tell stories of clan defense and community living, to the humble abacus that symbolizes Hakka ingenuity, this city rewards curious travelers with quiet wonders. If you are exploring Guangdong beyond Guangzhou and Shenzhen, Meizhou deserves a spot on your itinerary. Plan for at least two days, come with an appetite for history and local food, and prepare to discover one of China’s most enduring cultural legacies.
